Hiking in Finland

Climbing, bikepacking, skiing & packrafting in the north

Pirkan Taival Trail Trip Report

Once again I was on the Pirkan Taival trail, this time with my friend Clemens who spontaneously decided to come and visit me for a week. I planned a three day trip of 50 km for us, going from Kuru via the Helvetinjärvi National Park to Ruovesi, though due to Clemens's ankle which he twisted last week we only walked from Kuru to the Iso Kalliojärvi (Big Rock lake) and back.

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Follow the sign.

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An interesting bicycle.

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You have hiked from...

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Passing by a field.

The beginning of the trail leads through the village of Kuru, which we reached after 70 minutes in the bus from Tampere. The weather forecast promised 25°C for all three days, so we decided to not take the rain gear and take shorts instead of long pants. Good decision that was! After 3 km on the trail we left civilization behind us, and entered the wild.

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A mushroom.

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The trail.

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Wild flowers.

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Rocks covered in moss, fir and birch trees, that's Finnish nature!

Because of Clemens' ankle we walked slow, and made frequent breaks and enjoyed the nature. I saw a stag while walking up one hill, and before I was able to take a photo of him he hoofed it and was gone. Woodpeckers, butterflies and dragonflies were equally skilled in evading my camera, so you need to believe my words that we saw them. Off! was a welcome aid to keep the mosquitos off, of whom I probably could have taken a photo if I would have bothered.

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Chanterelle. We weren't 100% sure so didn't eat them. Damn - next time the guide book comes along!

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Blueberry fields.

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The trail continues.

We picked a good time to go hiking, as there were plenty of blueberries, raspberries; and if we would have known which mushrooms one is able to eat without dying we could have enhanced our dinner significantly. Repeated stops were made to grab some blueberries and raspberries, which were delicious. Around 18.30 o'clock we reached the Iso Kalliojärvi lean-to shelter, and took a swim in the wonderfully warm water. We swam for a while before I got the BushBuddy Ultra out and cooked our food.

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A bridge.

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The lean-to shelter at Iso Kalliojärvi.

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The loo on the trail. These are next to all camp sites, fire sites and lean-to shelters.

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Dinner with a view.

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Nightcap is brewing.

We went to sleep early, and during the night we saw how the full moon was wandering over the lake. If I wouldn't have been too tired I would have taken a photo. It was a cool night, and I got a bit cold in my Halti Megalite sleeping bag, even with wearing some insulation layers. So I got up at 05.30 o'clock and started a fire to warm myself up. The mist was hanging heavily over the lake, and it was a beautiful sight to look upon.

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Morning fog.

After a light breakfast and the decision to go back to Kuru we started walking at 07.30 o'clock, and after a good one and half hour walking we made a break on a bridge, boiled some water and had some soup in a cup. It was already warm, and we were thankful for the shorts and short sleeved shirts. And also for Off!

Walking down the same hill I saw the stag the day before, I didn't believe my eyes as I saw a black adder on the path enjoying the sun! Lo and behold, this time I was fast enough with the camera, and was able to snap a few photos! At 13.00 o'clock we reached Kuru, and with a well deserved ice cream we sat down in the shadow to wait for the bus home.

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Black adder.

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View.

ULA Ohm Arrived

Well, I think I just experienced the best customer service ever. Yes, my highly anticipated ULA Ohm arrived today. I went in the afternoon to the customs office to pick it up; paid 32€ for it at the customs additionally to the 140€ I cost me.

I filled it up with my gear, two days of food, two liters of water and had plenty of room to spare. I went out on the hill behind my house for some testing. Its very comfortable, soft on the back thanks to my TAR Prolite 4 which I used for the backpad, though I might replace it with another backpad in the future (probably a TAR Z-lite for the back and a NeoAir for sleeping). Shoulder straps are comfortable as well, just the front belt feels small, but coming from a Gregory Palisade 80 I guess that's just normal. The construction is superb, all seams are perfectly sewn and should be able to endure quite some abuse.

ULA Ohm
Front

ULA Ohm
Left side

ULA Ohm
Right side

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Back

I went for an one hour walk, bushwacking up the hill as I wanted to see how well it is made. It had no problems with the trees, stones and shrubs I passed by, and it left me enough maneuverability to even climb small stretches - something which was very difficult with my previous pack. Its easy to access the Platypus in the side pockets, and the hipbelt pockets are huge and easily hold my phone, wallet, knife or my camera (Canon Ixus), müsli bars and keys. Huge and very handy. I stashed the waterproofs in the front mesh pocket, and hope that the tent I am expecting will fill in one of the side pockets, if not it should fit easily on top. Its going be thoroughly tested next week, as a friend from Germany spontaneously decided to come for a visit next week and asked if we could go hiking =)

ULA Ohm

Travelling in Finland

While Roger covered the western side of Scandinavia very well in his recent Travelling above the Arctic Circle post, I would like to shed some light on the public transportation in Finland.

Going by train is my favourite travel mode. I like to sit and see the landscapes passing by, the ability to go for a walk in the train and also to read. The train in Finland drives from Helsinki in the south till the city of Rovaniemi, which is right next to the Arctic Circle, and almost everywhere in between. VR is the proprietor of the railway here, and you can book online and print the ticket yourself at home already. Very useful, as its also cheaper than buying at the ticket office. The train is reliable and usually on time, except on very cold and snowy days you might need to wait for a while.

Going by bus is also very comfortable, and you can pretty much jump out in the middle of nowhere if that's where you want to start hiking. Matkahuolto gives you also the opportunity to book online and print out your own ticket. Eskelisen Lapin Linjat operates a bus between Rovaniemi and Kautokeino in Norway (In Kautokeino the Nordkalottleden trail starts!). You should be able to get almost anywhere by bus.

Hitch hiking is also a cheap and easy method to travel in Finland. Its a save way to travel if you have a bit of knowledge of human nature - I wouldn't for example step in the car of a guy who has a chainsaw on the back seat ;) I usually travel back from a hiking trip by hitching a ride, as its a lot faster than waiting for a bus. Locate yourself on a spot where it easy for a car to stop and not hinder the traffic, and a sign saying where you wanna go is a benefit. Otherwise a thumb up will do. You normally are not required to pay, but its a good idea to ask if they want some gas money when you get out of the car.

Kimppa.net one the other hand is the "agency for arranged lifts" and gives you the possibility to find out about people who look for someone who wants to drive with them, or you can put up your own ad if you're searching for a ride. Cheap and easy, as you pay only gas money.

If you're in a hurry, then probably flying will be the fastest method to get from A to B. Ivalo is the northern most airport in Finland, and your best bet to get there are with Finnair and Blue1. From Ivalo its easy to get to Russia, Norway and Sweden.

That's it! Now you're set to book your tickets and go travel to all the spectacular outdoor locations in Finland!


Update: The bus between Rovaniemi and Kautokeino only operates in the summer time, this year from 27.6. - 7.8.09. However, Eskelisen Lapin Linjat operates a daily connection from Rovaniemi to Karasjok year around, from where it might be possible to connect to Kautokeino for the people which want to walk the Nordkalottleden. The trip from Rovaniemi to Karasjok takes around seven hours and costs for an adult 76,30€ one way. The Norwegian bus companies which connect to Karasjok to Kautokeino can be found from Rutebok.no or Veolia Transport.